Arcade Simpit Conversion Project

Daunt

MLG Pro
Worked on the arcade last night. Got most of the dash in. We didn't have the correct-sized bit to drill out a circle, so I couldn't put the original vac gauge that was in the arcade for the video game. Will do that soon.

20160204_074020.jpg


Still using the ghetto mouse platform though!

20160204_074044.jpg


The plan is to create a separate part of the dash that goes over the base of the G27 and incorporates my phone (which I use as a shifter / RPM etc screen). This will slide on over top and can easily be removed so I can access the base (and be able to remove it). It will look a bit like a steering column and will cover the gaps between the wheel base and the side dash that you see above.

20160204_073957.jpg


Also, if you recall before, the seat was off to one side (the wrong damn redcoat side) So we finally fixed that! Dremmel tool took off the other side and now it sits exact center.
 
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Daunt

MLG Pro
I recently installed the original Turbo's boost gauge as a decoration to the dash. I don't want to reveal anything yet though because I'm working on the icing on the cake for the pit.

Customized buttonbox. I have to sacrifice my wired xbox controller for it... but it is going to be amazing. We'll see how it goes. I've never done any soldering or any electronic work like that so... it will be fun!
 
E

ElektroVodka

That's going to be a real challenge there Kyle :) It means you'd either have to cut parts of the circuitboard, or add wires to the original button/axis location on the board itself to keep functionality and have a semi "free" placement of your buttons.

I bet you can pull it off, i just soldered a few active Mini-whip antennas myself for shortwave listening, and let's just say i'm glad i got the basics of soldering in my Car/Diesel Engineer course :)

Can't wait to see the results bud!

You mentioning the Xbox pad certainly made my idea a lot more feasible, i wanted to make a buttonbox for DCS/BMS myself, but never thought of using existing equipment.

Oh, and if you're working with a schematic and have questions about electrical symbols or anything, feel free to post them and i'll help where i can.
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
Thanks. There's a few guides out there because taking a controller gamepad and making the buttons different is a lot easier than doing it from scratch, especially because you have the USB functionality built in.

This is one such guide: http://www.instructables.com/id/Joypad-To-Switch-Box-Controller/
And another: http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Arcade-controller---Project-Gyokusho/

It honestly doesn't seem like it is rocket science. Thanks again for the help. I ordered some sick switches and buttons to use already... they'll be here next week:

These will come in handy for sure:
http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-switches-dimmers-outlets/light-switches/momentary-on-off-on-toggle-switch/p-1444431011257-c-6324.htm?tid=-9123952970948432267

I expect to use them as a brake bias up and down toggle and going through the black boxes. It would be extremely useful.

I ordered these as well:
http://www.amazon.com/Support-Cover-Rocker-Toggle-Switch/dp/B0154JY8OA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

But I'm not sure I'll use them for anything other than looking cool.

Other than that I got 4-6 momentary buttons that will help with switching to a specific black box, pit limiter, headlight flash, pitting macros, etc.
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
OK guys did several hours worth of work last night with a good friend - our main goal was getting the dash ready for wiring a proper button box. In the above post, you'll see the guides we'll be using to wire it up. But yesterday was all about getting the made for all the switches and buttons and making it look nice.

And I think we absolutely nailed it... I couldn't be happier. Usually these switches go into thin metal, so since we were using a thick wooden board as the dash, we had to use a router to thin it out in the right spots. Then it was just a matter of drilling simple 1/2 holes in the right spots for the actual switch / button and bam.

Center1.jpg


On the left side, I put in the original "Vacuum" gauge that came in the arcade cabinet. I thought it deserved to be back in and it looks sweet. You'll also see the three switches with safety covers. The entirety of the left side I plan to be non-functional - basically it's there to look cool. Unless I played some flight sims, I can't think of any good use for On-Off toggles.

leftside1.jpg


leftside2.jpg


On the right side is where the work is. All of the switches will be functional and that's where I made sure to have a good idea of what I wanted - both in what I want it to do and how. The first column features two momentary On - off - on toggles that were really important for me to incorporate. I can use these in a variety of ways - probably one that will increase / decrease brake bias, and the other to go through black boxes.

The next two columns are simple momentary buttons. These will be a great asset to have as it frees a few buttons on my wheel for the really important things (like flashing headlights). I plan to make them something like the pit limiter, F3, F5, maybe a "thanks" etc.

rightside1.jpg


rightside2.jpg


The next step will be making them functional. But already I am insanely happy with it.
 
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little P

Super Mod
Looking good! This is shaping up really nicely I bet you are over the moon with it :)

Thanks for the updates :icon_cool:
 

Kenadian

Staff member
Site Admin
That's fricking awesome, great work.

Will you be covering the woodgrain with something to make it look more like a mocked up dashboard?

Just curious.
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
Thank you both for your kind words.

That's fricking awesome, great work.

Will you be covering the woodgrain with something to make it look more like a mocked up dashboard?
No I do not plan on doing that sort of thing. I could easily get some carbon fiber wrap and put it over it but I just don't think it would fit with the rest of the arcade sim-pit. The black wood makes it look almost original.

So I'm going to keep it looking more like a rebirthed arcade rather than completely overpowering it with what would no doubt be an awesome, realistic looking race car dash.
 

Kenadian

Staff member
Site Admin
I kinda figured that was your reason for keeping it woodgrain but I thought I'd ask anyway.

It does look awesome though so great work.

Is it comfy?
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
Is it comfy?
It's much better than it was - I got for my birthday two months ago a really high end seat cushion that is normally intended for car seats, and it works perfectly. I realize I didn't put any photos on here... it's nothing spectacular to look at, especially with all the dog hair that's all over it now.

I will say just being in that position for longer than a few hours does start to get you though. It's more of a knee thing than anything else. I might try and play with the distance to the pedals... that may help, but it will def mess with my driving.

I plan to do a youtube walkthrough video so you can really get a sense of how it looks, better than pictures can provide. After I rewire I'd say.
 
Looking really nice Kyle, it's starting to get really functional as well. Especially with the easy to reach buttons on the right.

Are you unaware though that you can push the tightening knobs of the G27 inwards? Small detail but it might also secure the clamps better that way.
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
Thank you Noel.

I was aware just never really did it because I've never had a single issue with the wheel moving. But since it bugged you I pushed em down.
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
As a major added bonus, the buttons and even moreso the switches, when pressed or flipped, scare the shit out of my dog Nova. So no longer will I be bothered mid-race! All I have to do is flip a switch and she takes off.
 
Haha, that is hilarious. Dogs ruining people's races were becoming a big problem around here. Your dog is especially dangerous. It tries to ruin other people's races as well through TeamSpeak :).
 

Daunt

MLG Pro
OK guys - after a bit of work and plenty of testing, my buttons work perfectly! Despite not having a proper soldering iron (didn't have one that is made specifically for circuit boards - which would've been helpful considering how fine the work is) we got it wired and working.

wired_full2.jpg

In the picture you can see what's left of my xbox controller (the two thumbsticks still present). I plan to do a write up of how to make the button box - it is surprisingly simple, especially for someone like me who has absolutely no electrical knowledge and have never soldering anything.

Not that, as I'm sure you can judge by the picture, the soldering work was really good. But it works!

Buttonbox guide: http://bandofothersgaming.com/forum/showthread.php/2803-Buttonbox-How-To?p=29500#post29500
 
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